Hort Notes 2026 Vol. 37:4

A monthly e-newsletter from UMass Extension for landscapers, arborists, and other Green Industry professionals, including monthly tips for home gardeners.

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Announcements

Landscape Pests and Problems Walkabout 
Insects and Cultural Practices

Get hands-on experience scouting and identifying landscape insect and abiotic problems.

Join Tawny Simisky, UMass Extension Entomologist, Russ Norton, Cape Cod Cooperative Extension Horticulture and Agriculture Extension Educator, and Escher Cattle, Cape Cod Cooperative Extension Entomologist, for a walk through the landscape. We will examine some of the most common insect and cultural problems of woody ornamentals, as well as discuss and demonstrate how to put IPM practices to work efficiently. 

When: Tuesday, June 23, 2026 from 1:00 PM - 3:00 PM
Where: Heritage Museum & Gardens, 67 Grove St, Sandwich, MA 02563

Pesticide & Professional Credits
2 pesticide contact hours for category 36 and Applicators License available.
2 ISA, 1 MCLP, 1 MCA, and 1 MCH credits available.

Held rain or shine!

Reach out to harmonieolou[at]umass[dot]edu (harmonieolou[at]umass[dot]edu) if there is a need to pay via P.O. 

Register Online

Green School 2026 is Coming!

UMass Extension’s Green School is a comprehensive 60+ hour certificate short course that offers fundamental horticultural training in a convenient online format and compact time frame. This program is designed for professional practitioners such as landscapers, lawn care providers, nursery operators, public and private grounds managers, arborists, professional gardeners, landscape and garden designers, industry sales and support professionals, and others in the land care industries. Both experienced professionals as well as those aspiring to be will benefit from this course.

Registration for the Landscape, Turf, and Arbor tracks will begin in July with programming running from late-October through mid-December.

Learn More

What's Happening With UMass Extension

UMass Extension’s turf specialist Jason Lanier was featured on WCVB Boston's morning show to discuss how to best care for New England lawns in the spring. Note the extended video at the bottom.

Watch Online

UMass Extension's woody plant entomologist Tawny Simisky joined The Garden Lady podcast to talk about the Southern Pine Beetle and other insects of interest.

Listen In

UMass Extension's pollinator specialist Nicole Bell joined UMass Amherst PhD candidate Aliza Fassler on the Pollination podcast to unpack research on seeding log landings with native plants and spoke about the pollinator assemblages that use them.

Listen In

WCVB Boston’s morning show highlighted the UMass Soil and Plant Nutrient Testing Lab, with Lab Manager Sam Glaze-Corcoran explaining how the soil lab processes samples and interprets results, and Extension Educator Olivia Golden in the field to demonstrate how to take a proper soil sample.

Watch Online

Hot Topic (Literally)

All About Turf Dormancy

While this spring has been predominantly cool, on average, a couple stretches of strong summer-like weather may bring thoughts of turf irrigation – or the absence of it – to the forefront.

First… do all lawns need to be irrigated? The basic answer to this question is no, and in fact, a majority of turf areas are not irrigated.

Especially during the meteorological summer months of June, July, and August, average natural precipitation is often less than sufficient for sustaining active turf growth and performance. If rainfall inputs do not meet turf water needs over a significant period (exactly how long varies according to things like weather, soil conditions, and species present) then the plants wilt, lose green color, and eventually enter drought dormancy - a state where growth ceases, shoots and roots die back, and performance declines to some extent. The purpose of supplemental irrigation is to overcome this dynamic by artificially providing the moisture needed to maintain plant activity and growth during dry stretches.

Drought dormancy, however, is not necessarily a bad thing! In fact, it is a natural adaptation of cool season turfgrasses that enables long-term survival through the heat and drought of summer; often the steepest challenge that turfgrasses in this region face in a calendar year. Dormancy can have certain benefits, and where allowable, can enable significant resource savings in that regular inputs such as mowing, irrigation, and fertilization are not applied, or applied far less often, during dormant periods.

When dormancy is allowed to occur naturally, in an informed and intentional manner, a good descriptive phrase is “managing for dormancy.” The following is a discussion of some best practices for successfully managing for dormancy:

Consider turf performance: Turf performance integrates the two main factors we are interested in as turf surfaces are concerned… appearance and function. On appearance; if tolerance does not exist for loss of green color in the direction of various shades of brown, then supplemental irrigation must be a part of the management program in most years to maintain turf in a vibrant green state. As for function… while fully dormant turf may continue to provide an array of functional services and remain a reasonably effective groundcover, it may not provide the level of function that more specific applications, like many sports surfaces, for example, demand (in cases like this, irrigation is normally required to maintain desired surface characteristics throughout the summer months). When and where dormancy is allowed to progress, reductions in both appearance and function should be expected for the duration of the dormant period, as well as the bulk of the recovery period that follows.

Appreciate the role of turfgrass selection: Turfgrass selection is a foundational turf management decision and can substantially influence success in managing for dormancy. Grass species can vary considerably in their ability to withstand hot and dry conditions. Two primary mechanisms to focus on in this context are drought avoidance and drought tolerance. Collectively these make up the overall drought resistance of a species or variety, but they are very different mechanisms.

Drought avoidance concerns the ability of a turfgrass to delay dormancy; therefore, grasses that are good “avoiders” will stave off dormancy and maintain a high level of performance for longer as dry conditions persist. An example of a species with superior avoidance characteristics is tall fescue. While overall water use is also a factor, tall fescue has exceptional rooting capacity (Table 1), which functionally expands the volume of the soil that this species can draw on for moisture. This means that tall fescue can resist wilt and dormancy for longer durations relative to grasses with shallower roots.

Table 1: Drought avoidance capacity by species.

Drought tolerance, on the other hand, involves physiological mechanisms that enable survival through extended drought and dormancy. In other words, these grasses may go dormant sooner than some others, but their biology allows them to persevere through lengthy dormant periods with higher potential for emerging intact on the other side. The various fine leaf fescue species, for example, are in the category of good “tolerators.”

In the end, under irrigation, heat and drought resistant grasses will save water, and in scenarios with no irrigation in which dormancy may occur, heat and drought tolerant grasses will perform better. Learn more about general information on turfgrass selection online.

Should there be any irrigation during dormancy? Ideally, this is a binary decision, meaning either a full investment in managing for dormancy or a full commitment to supplemental irrigation. Half-measures can actually be more detrimental than any immediate issues created by dormancy. This has a lot to do with the turfgrass crown… the compressed stem that is the main growing point for all plant parts (shoots, roots, lateral stems).

Dormancy essentially involves a progressive retreat to the crown. Even if the entire shoot and root system die back, as long as the crown retains sufficient resources (i.e. moisture and carbohydrates), full recovery is possible. Insufficient and sporadic irrigation applied during summer stress can result in resource-intensive cycling in and out of a semi-dormant or dormant state, which further taxes precious carbohydrates during an already stressful time, and can therefore impact plant resilience and survival over the longer term.

So, generally, an all or nothing approach to dormancy is best. If desire and ability to further refine management of dormant turf exists, more recent research has suggested that a special “dormant irrigation” event every 3-4 weeks, applying not more than ½” of water, may enhance dormant survival and subsequent recovery. Note that this can be tricky. The objective is to add just enough moisture to keep crowns hydrated, but not enough to prematurely trigger any resumption of active growth before conditions moderate and growth resumes naturally.

What about fertilization during dormancy? Plant nutrients are taken up by active roots along with the absorption of moisture. Since dormancy normally features dry soils and inactive root systems, this is a poor set up for fertilization, and any applied nutrients are far more likely to be subject to loss and waste than they are to benefit the plants. Not only is this wasteful of money, time, and effort, nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus also carry the potential to pollute both ground and surface water when they move outside of the turf system. For these reasons, summer fertilization is best avoided for unirrigated turf, and in fact, Massachusetts law expressly prohibits application of nutrients to “drought dormant, cold dormant, inactive or otherwise brown turf”.

For a couple of additional fertilizer-related tips: potassium applications in spring prior to the summer stress (dormant) period can help to enhance stress tolerance and subsequent recovery. Also on recovery… nitrogen application as activity resumes can be especially important for driving growth that facilitates the expected rate and degree of recovery.

What about mowing? Remember the Rule of Thirds, which states that no more than 1/3 of the total plant height should be removed with each mowing event. Additionally, seeking to cut approximately 1/3 with each event can also be a clever tool for arriving at an optimal mowing frequency that matches the growth rate of the turf. I often say “if it isn’t growing, you shouldn’t be mowing”… meaning that unless the turf is approaching that 1/3 threshold, any mowing activities will only serve to add to the overall stress burden.

Related to the previous, traffic (foot, equipment, etc.) should be restricted on dormant turf to the extent possible. Loss of hydration during dormancy leads to significant loss of shoot system function in protecting the plant crown, as well as the soil below. Traffic on these compromised shoots can lead to higher incidence of plant loss from crown injury, as well as increased soil compaction concerns from reduced cushioning capacity against compressive forces.

Dormant turf may also warrant more close monitoring for pest problems. Pest issues from insects and diseases can go unnoticed on dormant turf simply because symptoms are much less apparent, and dormant plants are much less competitive against weed species. Note that dormancy may not be the most appropriate time for intervention, however, especially with chemical approaches. Always consult current guidance for a specific issue, and more importantly, product label directions before any pesticide applications on dormant turf.

Finally, know that managing for dormancy is not a perfect process, as conditions and scenarios vary endlessly, so extended dormancy may not result in 1:1 recovery. Remember that dormancy is a survival mechanism and relies on some maintenance of processes and resources. The longer that dormancy lasts, the greater the depletion of resources, which affects how much gas is in the tank when conditions moderate. The length and severity of dormancy is completely dependent on the weather, which is beyond our control, so always have a backup plan for overseeding, repairs, or renovation if recovery isn’t satisfactory when favorable conditions return. Thankfully, in most cases in the cool season environment, the best conditions for recovery and repairs arrive shortly after summer stress subsides.

Jason Lanier, Turf Specialist and Commercial Horticulture Group Leader, UMass Extension

Trouble Maker of the Month

Spotted Lanternfly Nymphs are Active

The spotted lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula) is established in several communities across Massachusetts. The time for scraping egg masses is coming to an end, as many will have hatched. This makes June the month of the spotted lanternfly nymph. Nymphs are the juvenile form of the insect.

Immature spotted lanternflies molt (shed their exoskeleton) four times, meaning there are four nymphal instars. The 1st through the 3rd instar nymphs are black with white spots and grow progressively larger in size. (1st instar nymphs may be 1/8 of an inch long and 4th instar nymphs are approximately 1/2 inch long.) The 4th instar nymph develops red patches over the black with white spots and is present from July through late August. All nymphs are without fully developed wings.

So, for the month of June, you can expect to encounter immature spotted lanternflies that are black with white spots and appear visually quite different from adults. The MA Department of Agricultural Resources provides a handy look-alikes sheet that helps identify spotted lanternfly nymphs (and adults) compared to other common Massachusetts insects.

Nymphs differ in their feeding preferences and behavior from adult spotted lanternflies. Some of these differences can make managing this stage of the insect a little more challenging. PennState Extension has identified that spotted lanternfly nymphs prefer feeding on the tender or new growth of both herbaceous and woody plants. On trees, this can mean they spend their time feeding in or near the canopy, making monitoring, and reaching them for management purposes, difficult.

Cultivated rose, multiflora rose, perennials, wild and cultivated grape, tree-of-heaven, black walnut, and butternut are all used as host plants by immature spotted lanternflies.

Nymphs tend to move through the environment more than adults. They may also move in aggregations or groups. This can include spending only a day or two on the same plant before moving to a new location. Adults tend to pick favorite trees and stay on the same plant longer. They may also return to a favorite tree in subsequent years and generations.

Contact insecticides may be a helpful option for the nymphs of the spotted lanternfly. This is because it can often be difficult to time a systemic application with the activity of the nymphs on a particular tree or shrub. Whereas “favorite trees” that the adult spotted lanternflies select may be a good candidate to consider for systemic insecticide applications. For Massachusetts, spotted lanternfly management options are available in the Professional Insect & Mite Management Guide for Woody Plants.

While large numbers of feeding nymphs can damage perennials and annuals and cause dieback of individual tree branches, in general, they are thought to ingest less tree sap or plant fluid than the adult stage. For example, the same population size of nymphs feeding in one location is thought to be capable of less damage than an equivalent population of adults.

Here are some criteria to consider before chemically management for spotted lanternfly:

1. Are spotted lanternfly present at the location where management is being considered? If yes, continue to #2. If not, no management action is necessary. Continue monitoring throughout the season.

2. Population: is the population undesirable or intolerable? Are you seeing many old egg masses and nymphs? Were there abundant adults present last season? Is feeding heavy and producing much honeydew & sooty mold?

3. Vulnerable hosts: is the location close to a vineyard? Are young, vulnerable plants or otherwise favored hosts present?

4. Can the plants be treated safely while reducing risk to the applicator and the environment? (Ex. Do not treat plants in bloom, etc.)

PennState Extension offers other ideas when considering whether or not to manage spotted lanternfly. Each site may be different, requiring a diverse set of factors be considered. If using chemicals to manage an insect, always read and follow label instructions. If you need assistance, contact a local and licensed pesticide applicator, landscape professional or tree care professional near you.

As always, if you believe you’ve found spotted lanternfly in a Massachusetts community that is not already known to have a population of this insect, please take a photo and report your location to the MA Department of Agricultural Resources.

Tawny Simisky, Woody Plant Entomologist, UMass Extension

Q&A 

*Have a question for our experts? Email them to extlandscape[at]umass[dot]edu (extlandscape[at]umass[dot]edu) with the title Hort Notes Q&A. We will feature reader questions in future issues!

Q. What is the most common lawn problem you see in the Diagnostic Lab?

A. The most common problem I see on lawn samples in the lab is improper watering practices. This is especially true for lawns seeded with fine fescues. Throughout the summer, I regularly see lawn samples in which fine fescues are brown and matted. Submitters in these cases often report that they watered their lawns “4-5 times per week for 15 minutes” or “twice daily.” This makes me suspect that the problem is improper watering.

Fine fescues deserve their reputation for being drought tolerant (see also the Hot Topic article above). Many homeowners have switched over to fine fescue lawns because once they are established they need significantly less water than traditional species such as Kentucky bluegrass; however, some neglect to change their watering habits accordingly. Fine fescues definitely do not like having “wet feet” and are less tolerant of wet soils than other turf species.

Consistently wet conditions are a source of stress for all types of turfgrass. Turfgrass roots need to breathe: they require oxygen to grow and to cool themselves by transpiration. Excessive water displaces oxygen in the soil, causing significant turf stress over time.

Frequency and duration of watering are also critical for turf health. Short, frequent irrigation promotes shallow rooting, which makes turf more susceptible to environmental stresses and disease. To maintain growth during summer, a general guideline for lawns in Southern New England is one inch of water per week from either precipitation, supplemental irrigation, or a combination thereof. Water deeply and infrequently: that is, either one application of one inch or perhaps two applications of half an inch each. Watering in this manner encourages deep rooting, an important characteristic that makes turf more resistant to heat and drought stress.

Watering is best done in the early morning, as increasing temperatures and sunlight will promote rapid drying of foliage. If areas of the lawn have poor drainage, it must be improved prior to re-seeding; otherwise, it's a losing battle.

Proper care of fine fescues does not end with proper watering practices. Fine fescues generally do not fare as well as other species in high maintenance scenarios where fertility programs are aimed at keeping bluegrass happy. In low-maintenance situations and areas where fine fescues predominate, apply no more than 2 lbs N/1000 ft² per season. Lastly, fine fescues are less tolerant of foot traffic and soil compaction than other turf species. Alleviate compaction and consider re-routing foot traffic. Keep in mind that fine fescues may be slow to recover from injury.

Angela Madeiras, Plant Pathologist, UMass Extension

Garden Clippings: Tips of the Month

June is the month to . . . .

• Direct seed summer vegetables. Beans, corn, squash, cucumber, okra, carrots and beets can be directly sown in the garden in early June after the danger of frost is passed. Before planting, make sure to prepare the soil well and incorporate compost or manure by tilling it 6"-8″ deep. Compost or manure improves soil structure and adds some nutrients. To ensure vegetable crops have adequate nutrients for optimal growth, also consider adding organic or slow-release fertilizer.
• Plant annuals and perennials. Examine plants prior to purchase for signs and symptoms of disease or insects. For perennials, check for roots that emerge from the bottom of the pot, which can indicate a root-bound plant. Before planting amend sandy soils with well decomposed organic materials (such as compost). Incorporate it into the soil 10"-12" deep. It is best to amend the entire planting area, rather than just a single planting hole. Make sure root balls are well watered before planting; never plant a dry root ball.
• Complete pruning of spring flowering shrubs. Pruning of forsythia, viburnum, honeysuckle, lilac, azalea, and rhododendrons should be completed before the end of June. Spring flowering shrubs form their flower buds in mid to late summer and flower the following spring on one-year old shoots. Pruning them after they have bloomed encourages the formation of new flower buds for next season. Pruning them too late can result in cutting off next year’s blooms.
• Thin seedlings as needed before plants start to crowd each other. Seeds of root crops such as beets, radish, and carrots are sowed thickly in rows and thinned later to the desired stand to allow them to develop properly. Root crops are thinned to 2" spacing to allow the roots to develop properly and should be thinned as soon as they reach small edible size
• Complete planting summer flowering bulbs. Tender bulbs that flower in the summer, such as canna, gladiolus, dahlias, and tuberous begonias, should be planted before the end of June. Tender bulbs cannot survive cold winter temperatures and should be planted in the spring after the soil has warmed up. Plant them in a sunny spot in the garden. They need warmth and bright light for optimum growth.
• Add new mulch to beds, as needed. If the beds already have mulch from last year, a thin 1" top dressing with new mulch is adequate. For new beds, spread 2"-3" of mulch and be careful not to spread mulch over crowns of perennial plants. Organic mulch such as ground bark, ground wood chips or shredded leaves can provide benefits such as weed suppression, soil moisture conservation, soil temperature reduction, addition of organic matter, and enhancement of appearance.
• Weed the garden. Weeds can be a pain in the garden throughout the month of June. Weed regularly so that the plants do not get a chance to reseed themselves leading to future problems. Weeds compete with plants for nutrients and moisture. Controlling weeds early is more effective and takes less time and effort.
• Be on the lookout for powdery mildew. During periods of high humidity and cooler night temperatures, powdery mildew can be a problem, especially on susceptible plants such as garden phlox, beebalm, zinnias, roses, lilacs, and ninebark. It weakens plants and may reduce flowering. Space plants properly to allow good air movement between the leaves. Water early in the day and avoid overhead watering, especially in the evening. Prune off crowded branches and thin plants to enhance light penetration and increase air movement. Thin and discard affected leaves as soon as you see signs of powdery mildew, to remove spores before they spread further.
• Scout for lace bugs on azaleas. Look for dark, black tar-like spots of excrement deposited by immature and adult lace bugs on the underside of plant leaves. Lace bug damage on azaleas appears as yellow or bronze stippling on the upper surface of host plant leaves, with the insects being noticeable on the underside of the leaves. Use products labeled for control of lace bugs and be sure to read and follow label directions.
• Move houseplants outdoors. Many houseplants can be revitalized if placed outdoors during summer. When moving houseplants outdoors, gradually introduce them to sunlight. Avoid sudden changes in light intensity as it can cause leaf or flower drop. Be aware that container plants placed outdoors dry out much faster and should be watered more often.

Geoffrey Njue, Greenhouse Specialist, UMass Extension

Perennials for Shade

Shade can be one of the most enchanting, while also one of the most challenging, parts of the landscape. Many plants, especially flowering plants, require full sunlight to thrive. Shade can be further complicated by additional factors such as tree roots, wet or dry soil, or very deep shade. Although these conditions are difficult, there are a number of striking plants that flourish in shady locations.

In general, light levels are defined as follows:

• Full sun: 6 hours or more of direct sun
• Part sun/part shade: 4-6 hours of morning or evening (not midday)
• Dappled shade: indirect light (such as filtered through trees)
• Shade: 4 hours or less of morning or evening sun (not midday)

Shade tolerant plants have evolved to be adapted to lower light levels. Sun plants will stretch to try to reach more light, often resulting in lopsided or leggy growth. Too much shade may also cause plants to have reduced growth and reduced or no flowers.

Part to Full Shade

Actaea simplex, or baneberry or bugbane, is a large growing plant reaching 3-4’ x 2-3’. It has terminal racemes of fluffy, creamy white, fragrant flowers on wiry stems, rising up above foliage, appearing in late summer to early fall. The green foliage is ternately compound and is reminiscent of Astilbe. The Atropurpurea group provides additional interest with deep purple-green foliage.

Asarum canadense, or Canada wild ginger, is a shady area groundcover native to the eastern and central US. Foliage is heart to kidney shaped with distinct veining. The purple-brown flowers are unique in appearance but are mostly hidden by foliage. A. europaeum is similar in appearance with glossier foliage.

Astilbe spp., or false goat's beard, are a popular shade plant for their plume-like flowers and fern-like foliage. Species and cultivars differ in flower color, foliage color, size, and sun and drought tolerance. There are around 20 species of astilbe native to eastern Asia and eastern North America.

Bergenia cordifolia, or Siberian-tea, has glossy, leathery, rounded dark green leaves with small dark pink flower panicles appearing within or just above the foliage in April. Foliage turns purplish bronze in winter.

Epimedium species offer unique four parted flowers that resemble a bishop’s hat. The waxy flowers are in loose racemes on wiry stems rising above the foliage. Flowers can be yellow, red, white, pink, or orange depending on the species and/or cultivar. Foliage is evergreen when protected. Leaves are leathery, mostly heart or arrow shaped, and can range in size from 2”-12”, varying with species.

Helleborus, or hellebore or winter aconite, species and hybrids are a group of later winter/early spring blooming perennials. The showy flowers can be a variety of colors including white, yellow, pink, red, and purple, and can include ruffled and double forms. Foliage is evergreen, dark green, and leathery. Leaves are deeply lobed.

Heuchera, or coralbells, species and cultivars offer an array of colorful foliage to brighten the shaded landscape. Leaves are rounded and lobed forming a basal mound. Foliage colors include green, blue-green, purple, red, bronze, orange, and yellow, often have marbling or contrasting veins. Flowers are small on wiry stems and come in white, pink, coral, or red. Hybrids vary in their sun tolerance with some adaptable to sun in northern climates. Most prefer part shade, with some cultivars tolerant of deeper shade.

X Heucherella hybrids are a cross between Hechera and Tiarella. Heuchera provides leaf colors, and Tiarella offers flower characteristics, foliage blotching, deeper lobes, and more compact form. Foliage is available in green, orange, yellow, silver, red, and variegated. Dense panicles of small white or pink flowers rise on wiry stems.

Hosta species are available from miniature cultivars that only grow to 6” tall (Mouse Ears cultivars) to gigantic cultivars that can reach 4’-5’ tall and 6’-8’ wide (‘Empress Wu’) with most being 1’-3’ tall and wide. Foliage colors include green, blue-green, white, and yellow, many with variegation. Leaves are often heavily veined and large with long petioles, but cultivars can also be slim or have wavy margins. Flowers are white or purple rising on long stems above the foliage.

Lamprocapnos spectabilis, formerly known as Dicentra spectabilis, or bleeding heart, has unique, pink, puffy, heart-shaped flowers that dangle down from arching stems. The biternately compound leaves are green and have somewhat of a ferny appearance. Plants should be accompanied with others that will hide the fading foliage as summer progresses.

Ligularia dentata, or summer ragwort, is a large growing (3-4’ x 2-3’) perennial with large, leathery, rounded leaves. Foliage is dark green above with a reddish-purple underside. Yellow daisy-like flowers appear in loose flat corymbs above the foliage in late summer. Hybrids offer unique forms: ‘Britt-Marie Crawford’ has deep purple foliage that provides a stark contrast to the bright yellow flowers and ‘Bottle Rocket’ has spikes of yellow flowers. A related species, L. prezewalskii, has long spikes of yellow flowers and jaggedly lobed large leaves.

Phlox divaaricata, or woodland phlox, is an eastern US native with loose clusters of slightly fragrant lavender to pink to blue flowers. Green leaves are simple and elliptic. Plants can spread by rooting to the ground at nodes.

Polygonatus odaratum var. pluriflorum ‘Variegatum’ offers graceful arching stems lined in bright green leaves with white (or cream/gold) edges. Small, tubular, fragrant flowers droop from the leaf axils being the stems.

Pulmonaria saccarata, or Bethlehem lungwort, has green leaves heavily mottled with white spots provided a novel look in the shade garden. This early spring bloomer has pink flowers that turn blue in nodding, branched, and terminal cymes. Cultivars and hybrids offer white, purple, pink, and blue flower options.

Tiarella cordifolia, or heart-leaved foamflower, has airy racemes of small white or pink flowers lasting around 6 weeks in spring. The common name of foam flower comes from the foamy texture of the stamens. Foliage is 3-7 lobed, rounded to somewhat triangular and is evergreen in mild winters. The semi glossy foliage is green, often with reddish variegation along veins. Plants slowly spread by underground rhizomes making Tiarella a nice shady area groundcover.

Ferns

Adiantum pedatum,or Northern maidenhair fern, is native to North America and Asia. Plants are finely textured with curved stalks. Stems are reddish-brown to black and wiry. Fiddleheads emerge pink in spring.

Athyrium filix-femina, or lady fern, is a small but easy to grow fern. Fronds have 20-30 pairs of elliptic leaflets. Cultivars offer unique features such as ball-like leaflets, frilly leaflets, or reddish stems.

Athrium niponicum var. pictum, or Japanese painted fern, has soft gray-green fronds with silver accents and dark maroon midribs. Fronds green with age.

Dryopteris erythrosora, or autumn fern, is a vase-shaped fern growing 2’ tall and wide. New fronds unfurl in shades of orange, copper, red, to pink maturing to dark green.

Onoclea (Matteuccia) struthiopteris, or ostrich fern, has finely dissected fronds that have a feathery appearance like ostrich plumes. Fronds emerge from a narrow base, growing into an upright to arching clump.

Onoclea sensibilis, or sensitive fern, has 2’-4’ long fronds with leathery, triangular leaflets.

Osmunda regalis, or royal fern, has bipinnately compound fronds that resemble locust tree leaves. Fronds are pale pink when they emerge in spring. This clump forming fern grows 2’-3’.

Polystichum acrostichoides, or Christmas fern, is an evergreen fern with leathery lance shaped fronds forming a fountain-like clump.

Part Shade

Aralia cordata ‘Sun King’, or spikenard, is a large growing (3’-6’ x 3’-6’) shrub-like herbaceous perennial. The compound leaves are up to 3’ long with a golden yellow color. The inflorescence are white umbels in spike-like panicles. Flowers give way to purple-black berries that ripen in fall. Foliage will be greener in deeper shade.

Brunnera macrophylla, or forget-me-not, has heart-shaped dark green leaves in a basal mound. Leaves are contrasted by the small blue flowers in airy racemes in spring. Cultivars offer unique foliage with silvery leaves and/or veining.

Mukdenia rossii ‘Karasuba’ has rounded, palmate 5-9 lobed leaves with crimson red leaf tips throughout summer. Branched panicles of bell-shaped white flowers rise above the foliage in May.

Hakonechloa macra, or Japanese forest grass, is a 12”-18” tall growing shade grass. The species offers bright green leaves with a papery texture that is arching. Yellow leaved cultivars, such as ‘All Gold’, are popular with the bright yellow foliage providing a pop of color in the shade garden.

Sunny Areas of Shade Gardens

Alchemilla mollis, or lady’s mantle, has attractive, light green, circular foliage with scalloped edges. Tiny chartreuse flowers rise above the foliage in late spring to early summer. It can tolerate full sun to close to full shade; preferring part shade especially in hot summers. ‘Thriller’ is slightly larger than the species with better blooms.

Anemone x hybrida, or Japanese anemone, offers white or pink flowers from late summer to fall. Plants are generally upright, growing 2’-3’ tall (sometimes taller). Foliage is dark green and palmately toothed. Plants can be sited in full sun but perform best in part shade protected from wind.

Aruncus dioicus, or bride’s feathers, has a large presence in the landscape, growing 4’-6’ x 2’-4’. Plants somewhat resemble astilbe with pinnately compound dark green leaves and plume-like spikes of small white flowers in summer. It can be in full sun in the northern part of the range but prefers part shade and does not like to dry out.

Iris cristata is a low-growing, spreading iris growing only to 0.5’-0.75’ tall. Flowers are blue, lilac or lavender in color with a yellow crested ridged fall and appear in early spring. The foliage is narrow and sword shaped.

Liriope muscari, or big blue lilyturf, is a grass like clumping perennial with narrow arching green leaves mounded to around 1’-1.5’. Spikes of small purple flowers appear in later summer/early fall. This adaptable plant can grow in full sun to part shade, tolerating close to full shade.

Mandy Bayer, Landscape Plant Specialist

Vegetable Notes Excerpt

Strawberry School Take-Home Messages

I had the pleasure of attending Strawberry School in February. The program was organized by UMass Extension and the New England Vegetable & Berry Growers' Association and taught by Dr. David Handley of the University of Maine Cooperative Extension, a long-time Extension specialist known across the region for his practical, field-tested strawberry production guidance. This summary pulls together the main “grower-ready” points from the program - the steps that most strongly drive establishment success, yield, and bed longevity (with weed control and site preparation at the top of the list) - as a quick reference for growers heading into the season.

• Weeds are the #1 reason strawberry beds fail early. If you only “go big” on one thing, make it weed control. The payoff is longer bed life and easier harvest.

• Start weed control before you plant (not after). Use rotation and pre-plant strategies to reduce the weed seedbank and perennial weed pressure. Other options like tarping (summer/fall before planting) and burndown herbicides (fall/spring before planting) can also be used.

• Test soil the year before planting, then address it before plants go in. Targets: pH 6.2 - 6.8 and organic matter 4%+ (often 4-6%), plus balanced P/K/Ca/Mg. Correct problems ahead of time by adding lime, compost, manure, etc. the fall before planting.
• Renovation keeps matted-row beds paying rent. Typical bed life is 3-6 years when you renovate annually and keep weeds under control. Renovate every year after harvest - don’t renovate the year you plant - and evaluate bed health each season.
• Plasticulture is a 2-year system - manage it like one.
  • Year 1: Establishment (bed prep → planting July to Sept → flower removal → runner control → winter protection)
  • Year 2: Production (cover removal → frost protection → pest management → harvest → remove plastic and rotate out).
• Flower removal during establishment is key for plasticulture with dormant crowns, in order to drive establishment and avoid stressing young plants.
• Know plant type tradeoffs (plugs vs. dormant crowns).
  • Dormant crowns: cheaper, wider variety choice, earlier planting (June-July), but you have to remove flowers and runners and watch for heat stress.
  • Plugs: later planting (September-November), more expensive and limited varieties, but generally no flower removal / no runner removal, with cautions about disease and establishment time.
• Rotation matters for long-term pest and soil management. In any given field, Dr. Handley recommends strawberries “in” for 1-3 years, then “out” for 4-5 years, using summer and winter rotation crops to support soil structure, nutrients, and pest suppression (weeds, diseases, insects).
• Provide proper nutrients. Optimal targets are: 20–30 ppm P, 120–180 ppm K, 100-150 ppm Mg, with K:Mg ≈ 4:1. Cap boron at 1lb B/season to avoid toxicity.
• Frost protection is not optional once buds/flowers have emerged. Dr. Handley emphasizes preparation (sprinkler setup/coverage, frost nozzles/risers) and a clear trigger point: start irrigation protection at about 33°F at bud height.

John Galvan, Small Fruit Educator, UMass Extension 

The Vegetable Notes newsletter contains timely information on vegetable and berry crop production and is published weekly during the growing season and occasionally in the off-season. Subscribe to the newsletter to receive notifications when it is published.

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