UMOC Rock/Ice Climbing Guidelines

Anchor system
   Bowline with backup (overhand knot) OR at least 3 wraps around a tree with a carabiner and a figure-eight knot with backup.
   4 locking carabiners for each anchor system (opposite and opposed).
   2 natural anchors OR if one element of an anchor is a trad piece, the anchor must consist of three elements, at least one being natural.
   Tree should be at least 6 inches in diameter and ‘solid’.
   Anchor system should contain two totally independent anchors.
   No material on material where dynamic rubbing may occur.
   The second leader must check the anchor systems before climbing or rappelling occurs on said anchors.

Belaying
   “V for Victory”
   Always pair beginner belayer with a back-up hip belayer.
   Use personal discretion for belay anchor.
      Ex: If belayer needs to move during climb (no anchor).
      Ex: If climber can not afford to fall further than dynamic stretch (anchor).
      Ex: If landing is ‘sketchy’ (anchor).

Rappelling
   Leaders use personal discretion for personal rappelling.
   Belay from top for first time rappelling participants.
   Use fireman’s belay for participants.
   (Use personal discretion) A prusik or other stopper knot may be used as a back-up.

Equipment
   Belay devices used for instruction must be ATC or GriGri (use personal discretion).
   Webbing and static rope for use on anchor systems.

Personal
   If you are 6 feet from edge of cliff you MUST be attached to a personal anchor system.
   If anybody is 10 feet from base of cliff he/she MUST wear a helmet.

Leadership
   There must be 2 leaders on a trip
   One leader may be an approved co-leader in training
   Leader should have a ‘pre-trip’ with co-leader to ‘teach’ UMOC guidelines, etc . . .
   To become official leader, co-leader must “lead” a trip with supervision
   Participant to leader ratio: 5 to 1

Additional
   No instruction will be given for lead climbing
   Only trip leaders may lead on UMOC ropes
   Ice climbing = same rules as rock climbing

This page was last updated on Tuesday, 13-Nov-2007 19:29:35 EST

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