Sweatshop
issues to be reviewed
Daniel
J. Fitzgibbons
CHRONICLE
STAFF
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March
10, 2000
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With student activists
pressing sweatshop labor issues at colleges across the country,
campus officials are establishing a committee to review current
institutional requirements for firms that manufacture items with
UMass insignia.
The committee, which has not yet
been named, was announced Wednesday by Paul Page, vice chancellor
for Administration and Finance. The panel will be charged with
assessing whether the University's code of conduct for firms that
are licensed to make clothes and other goods bearing the UMass
insignia is both current and effective.
Page said that David P. Curley,
director of Licensing and Trademarks, has been meeting with concerned
students during the past few months to discuss possible revisions
to the licensing code and methods of monitoring and enforcing
the code's requirements. Now, Page said, it is time for a pan-campus
group to become involved. He said the committee will be composed
of a cross-section of students, faculty and staff.
The campus action also follows
several highly publicized student protests at other institutions,
including the University of Michigan and the University of Wisconsin.
At Michigan, students protesting the school's stance on sweatshop
labor occupied a dean's office for two days. Wisconsin students
staged a sit-in outside the chancellor's office, a protest that
ended with 54 arrests.
However, administrators at both
schools and a third Big Ten institution -- Indiana University
at Bloomington -- subsequently agreed to conditionally join the
Workers Rights Consortium (WRC), a new monitoring group activists
say will help ensure college apparel is not manufactured in sweatshops.
Page said Wednesday that the University
is sending a representative to the founding conference of the
WRC on April 7 in New York City. The representative, who has not
yet been selected, will be charged with investigating the potential
opportunities of joining the WRC while also assessing WRC's viability
and governance structure.
To date, the University has chosen
not to join either the WRC or another monitoring group, the Fair
Labor Association (FLA), a group of apparel makers, colleges and
universities, and the U.S. Labor Department. Page said that many
student groups, including a campus organization called UMass Students
Against Sweatshops, say that the FLA cannot effectively monitor
workers rights because it has too many corporate ties.
"The University wants to be proactive
in these matters," Page said. "I will ask the committee to review
the available information about the monitoring groups and the
potential opportunities offered by each and to advise the administration
on the best course of action." He said if the University decides
to join either monitoring group, it would also undertake continuous
assessment of its membership.
According to Page, the University
established a code of conduct three years ago to ensure the rights
and safety of workers in domestic and foreign factories that manufacture
apparel and other products bearing the University's name or logo.
The code has been updated several
times since it was established, Page said, as the result of input
from students from both the Amherst and Boston campuses, the experience
of peer institutions, and new information concerning the manufacture
of college apparel.
The most recent and far-reaching
update was last fall when a requirement was added to the code
mandating that all firms licensed to make clothing bearing the
UMass insignia or logo provide full disclosure of information
concerning the names and locations of all their factories and
their subcontractors to the University's Office of Licensing and
Trademarks. This requirement is now written into all new licenses
obligating disclosure prior to granting a license.
Page said that companies currently
under a license agreement have until this coming September to
comply with this requirement. He said the University has already
received factory disclosure information from the University's
largest licensees.
The Licensing and Trademark Office
based on the Amherst campus oversees all licensing agreements
for the five-campus University system. According to Curley, the
University currently maintains approximately 320 active licensing
agreements, 90 of which are for apparel.
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